Wrinkle and sagging care — how to protect collagen and elastin

Wrinkles and sagging occur when the very "structure" of the skin changes. In the dermis beneath the epidermis, collagen (collagenous fibers) and elastin (elastic fibers) form a network that supports skin firmness and elasticity.

The roles of collagen type I and type III

Approximately 80% of dermal collagen is type I (thick, strong fibers) and about 15% is type III (fine, flexible fibers). Young skin has a higher proportion of type III, achieving both softness and firmness, but as we age, type III decreases and skin becomes stiffer. For wrinkle and sagging care, it is important not only to maintain type I but also to promote type III collagen production.

MMP vs TIMP — the battle between degradation and defense

Collagen is constantly being synthesized and degraded. MMPs (matrix metalloproteinases) handle degradation, while TIMPs (tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases) suppress their activity. UV exposure and chronic inflammation increase MMP expression, and when the balance between synthesis and degradation tips toward "degradation-dominant," wrinkles and sagging progress.

The 3-axis approach — promote synthesis, suppress degradation

1. Peptides (synthesis promotion) — signal peptides such as Matrixyl and palmitoyl pentapeptide send collagen synthesis signals to fibroblasts, promoting production of type I and type III collagen.

2. Retinol (fibroblast activation) — retinol, a vitamin A derivative, activates fibroblasts through retinoic acid receptors (RAR), promoting collagen synthesis while simultaneously suppressing MMP expression.

3. Vitamin C (synthesis cofactor) — functions as a cofactor for prolyl hydroxylase, which is essential for stabilizing collagen's triple helix structure. Without adequate vitamin C, collagen quality deteriorates and the structure becomes fragile.

By combining these three axes, you can approach from both synthesis promotion and degradation suppression, achieving more effective wrinkle and sagging care.