Peptides used in skincare can be broadly classified into four types.
1. Signal Peptides
Send signals to fibroblasts to synthesize collagen. Examples: Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl). Best for firmness and elasticity.
2. Neuropeptides
Suppress excessive facial muscle contraction. Example: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline), often called "topical Botox." Best for expression lines.
3. Carrier Peptides
Deliver trace metals to skin. Example: GHK-Cu (Copper Peptide). Best for repair and regeneration.
4. Enzyme-Inhibiting Peptides
Inhibit MMPs to prevent collagen degradation. Build + Don’t destroy = True collagen care.
Choosing by purpose
Firmness: Signal. Expression lines: Neuro. Repair: Carrier. Prevention: Enzyme-inhibiting. Ideally, combining multiple types produces synergistic effects.
References
Key peer-reviewed sources behind the scientific statements in this article.
- Robinson LR, Fitzgerald NC, Doughty DG, Dawes NC, Berge CA, Bissett DL. Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2005;27(3):155-160. PubMed
- Blanes-Mira C, Clemente J, Jodas G, Gil A, Fernández-Ballester G, Ponsati B, Gutierrez L, Pérez-Payá E, Ferrer-Montiel A. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2002;24(5):303-310. PubMed
- Pickart L, Margolina A. Regenerative and Protective Actions of the GHK-Cu Peptide in the Light of the New Gene Data. Int J Mol Sci. 2018;19(7):1987. PubMed