Pore and acne care — the 3 factors of sebum, keratinization, and inflammation

Pore and acne concerns affect many people regardless of age. However, while the causes of "visible pores" and "acne formation" overlap in some areas, they involve different mechanisms. To care for them properly, let's first understand the three key factors.

Three factors that make pores visible

Visible pores result from the interplay of three factors: "excess sebum," "keratinization disorders," and "sagging". In teens and early twenties, sebum and keratin issues are the main culprits, but from the thirties onward, sagging (pore elongation due to collagen loss) joins the mix.

The 4 stages of acne — from comedone to cyst

Acne progresses through four stages. Stage 1: Comedone — sebum and keratin clog the pore (whiteheads and blackheads). Stage 2: Papule — C. acnes bacteria proliferate and inflammation begins as red bumps. Stage 3: Pustule — neutrophils accumulate and pus forms. Stage 4: Cyst — inflammation extends to the dermis with increased risk of scarring (acne marks).

The key to care is addressing acne at the comedone stage. Once inflammation progresses, treatment becomes much more difficult.

Effective ingredients and their mechanisms

Azelaic acid — has anti-proliferative effects on sebaceous glands, suppressing sebum secretion. It also normalizes keratinization disorders and has antibacterial properties, making it a multi-functional ingredient for pore and acne care. It is used as a pharmaceutical at concentrations of 15-20%.

Niacinamide — suppresses the synthesis of triglycerides and fatty acids, which are the main components of sebum, reducing overall sebum production. It also suppresses the production of inflammatory cytokines (such as IL-8), alleviating acne inflammation.

Retinol — promotes epidermal turnover and helps discharge keratin clogging pores. By normalizing keratinization, it prevents comedone formation and improves pore visibility long-term. However, retinoid reactions (temporary redness and peeling) may occur when first starting use, so it is important to begin with low concentrations and let the skin adjust.