Skin Skincare University

The dark side of raw material grades—same ingredient name, different quality

LEVEL 4 The Truth About Ingredient Labels
KAIAN R&D Team | |

Even when the ingredient name is the same, the actual efficacy varies significantly depending on the raw material manufacturer and degree of purification.

Originals and Generics

Cosmetic raw materials are originally developed by major manufacturers (Sederma, BASF, Evonik, etc.) and validated through clinical trials. Once patents expire, generic manufacturers produce the same chemical structures at lower cost.

Original materials have 95-99% purity with RCT (randomized controlled trial) data. Generic materials have 50-80% purity with no data. Yet the same name appears on the ingredient list.

Quality Gaps Hidden Behind the Same Ingredient Name▲ SurfaceName Listed onIngredient Label(Same Name)Purity Difference(99% vs 50~80%)Clinical Data Availability(RCT Available vs No Data)Raw Material Manufacturer(Sederma/BASF vs Generic)Lot StabilityInvisible to ConsumersEven with the same ingredient name, quality differences are hidden beneath the surface

The Problem with Human Stem Cell Conditioned Media

Human stem cell conditioned media exhibits even greater quality variation, with composition fluctuating based on donor status and culture conditions. Growth factors may include undesirable ones such as VEGF.

The Superiority of Chemically Synthesized Peptides

In contrast, chemically synthesized peptides have fully defined molecular structures, controllable purity, lot-to-lot uniformity, and contain no unwanted growth factors. "Knowing exactly what is in it" is the greatest advantage of synthetic peptides. "Naturally derived" or "human-derived" does not inherently mean better -- efficacy should be judged by reproducibility of results.

References

Key peer-reviewed sources behind the scientific statements in this article.

  1. Chouaib B, Haack-Sørensen M, Chaubron F, Cuisinier F, Collart-Dutilleul PY. Towards the Standardization of Mesenchymal Stem Cell Secretome-Derived Product Manufacturing for Tissue Regeneration. Int J Mol Sci. 2023;24(16):12594. PubMed
  2. Skibska A, Perlikowska R. Signal Peptides - Promising Ingredients in Cosmetics. Curr Protein Pept Sci. 2021;22(10):716–728. PubMed
This article is reference information about cosmetic ingredients and does not guarantee efficacy. Figures and test results vary by condition.
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