Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)

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Firmness / AgingBrighteningAntioxidant

INCI: Ascorbic Acid / derivatives

Effect

Antioxidant, collagen synthesis (cofactor for proline hydroxylation), melanin suppression

Mechanism

ROS scavenging, tyrosinase inhibition, regeneration cycle with vitamin E

Typical concentration

Pure form 5-20% (pH 3.5 or below), APPS 1-3%

Onset

Antioxidant: immediate. Brightening: 8-12 weeks. Collagen: 12+ weeks

Cautions

Pure form is extremely unstable. Risk of irritation at high concentrations

Evidence & references

Pinnell et al. (2001) [PubMed], Pullar et al. (2017) [PubMed]

Journal

Related Journal

Care Guides by ConcernDark spot and dullness care — the mechanism of melanin and effective ingredients The Complete Peptide GuideThe science of multi-peptide formulations -- synergy and antagonism The Complete Vitamin C GuideWhy is vitamin C good for skin? -- Three key effects The Complete Vitamin C GuideTypes of vitamin C derivatives -- APPS, VC-Ethyl, and ascorbic acid differences The Complete Vitamin C GuideVitamin C effective concentrations and stability -- the pH 3.5 barrier The Complete Vitamin C GuideCutting-edge vitamin C -- liposomal delivery and next-gen derivatives An Honest Word on IngredientsThe Truth About "Collagen-Infused" — Does Topical Application Really Work?UV & Photoaging SciencePhotoimmune suppression and DNA damage — the invisible damage of UV UV & Photoaging ScienceMolecular mechanisms of photoaging and photoprotection strategies Seasonal & Environmental SkincarePollen, PM2.5, blue light — environmental stress and skin

This page is reference information and does not guarantee efficacy. Figures vary by test conditions (in vitro / manufacturer / concentration). It does not indicate pharmaceutical efficacy.

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