Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

An oil-phase ingredient derived from plant sterols and an amino acid. An emollient that softens skin and keeps it moisturised and smooth

A mixture in which plant sterols (campesterol, stigmasterol, beta-sitosterol, etc.) and octyldodecanol are esterified with lauroyl glutamic acid (CIR 2023 definition). Its lamellar-forming behaviour has been studied. In a human patch test, 2% of the ingredient gave lower redness readings than the vehicle under retinol application (18 subjects, study by company researchers)

0.01-25% in leave-on products, 0.3-8% in face and neck skin care, and 0.1-0.5% in moisturisers (CIR 2023 / 2021 US industry survey). Human studies used 2% and 10%

Human studies evaluated 5 days of occlusive patching and 4 weeks of in-use testing at 2%. The moisturised, softened feel is present from application

CIR concluded it is safe in present practices of use (2023 final report). Human patch tests at 100% (45 subjects) and a 7-day cumulative irritation test of a 1.5% formulation (38 subjects) showed no irritation. Note that the 10% study was a clinical study in subjects with a skin condition, which goes beyond what may be cited as a cosmetic benefit